scuba

Life on the Kona Aggressor II

This was our second dive trip of the year, both of which were on the Kona Aggressor II.  Each time we have sailed, there has been turnover of captains and dive guides, but each time is always wonderful.  If you are kamaʻaina (you live in Hawaiʻi), this is the absolute best value for diving Kona.

Our crew consisted Captain Randy (our first time with him), Chef Kevin (second time), Engineer Cliff (three out of five of our trips), DMs Cameron (second time), Celia & Jeremy (both new for us).

Our fellow passengers were cousins Kari & Kirsten (east coast mainlanders), Seiko & Nobu from Japan, Ushesh from California & Stephan from Switzerland, Dean & Barb (also east coast mainlanders), and Gillian & Oliver from Zurich by way of New Zealand and Germany, respectively.

Our trip yielded 27 dives at 14 locations, one of which was new for us!  It's a rare trip down the Kona coast that gives us that.  Some of the highlights of the trip included a pod of dolphins, manta rays, frogfish, bi-color anthias, a viper moray, bandit angelfish, and tinker's butterflyfish!  And, naturally, the highlight of the trip was the "pelagic magic" night dive, 3 miles off the Kona coast.  Truly a magnificent exhibit of migrating deep sea life.

For a look at the Captain's Log, go to:  http://bit.ly/2ffYwjz

Ungil Beches Er Rak!

I had the rare treat of sleeping in until 5:30 this morning - yippee!!  We went down to breakfast still at our normal early hour, and enjoyed our last breakfast at the Sea Passion.  Although our two stays here have been good, I don’t think we will be coming back, but I would still recommend it as a reasonable location close to the dive centers (Sam’s and Neco).

It’s no secret that we haven’t been happy with Sam’s Tours’ front office this trip.  Dermot’s reorganization and streamlining has made it a less friendly, attentive and discerning operation.  New divers are mixed in with experienced divers, repeat visitors are made to go through dive checks again, the billing system is highly flawed, and the staff at the desk seem to say “No, it is impossible to do that” rather than “Let’s see what we can do.”  If I hadn’t recruited other divers, we wouldn’t have made it to Peleliu (and the gentleman working the front desk actually told me no, we couldn’t go to Peleliu because there was no way he could get permits at 3 in the afternoon).  We signed up, but never got to go on a night dive.  We had five different divemasters and four different boats.  Not that we are complaining about the divemasters, we appreciated them.  The tanks are poorly cared for - so many leaky valve stems and valves, chewed up yoke adapters.  The front office doesn’t have a spreadsheet controlling what gear goes on which boat - we even had to use creative replacements for camera buckets!  And the poor Hammerhead has seen better days, and needs some serious repair.  It just seemed like the front office didn’t care.  And neither do Sam or Dermott.  I am going to have to write to the Traveling Diver’s Chapbook about this visit.  And I don’t think that I can go back there again. 

With all of that in mind, we walked up to the Carolines Resort to check out the rooms.  The manager was quite friendly, and we went up to see one of the cabins.  They are lovely, all with lanai views of the water below.  There are only 8, so the service is very personalized.  I expect that we will be staying there in June this year when we return.           

From there we walked to Fish ‘n Fins - a little over an hour away from the resort.  We walked in and the shop was as busy as Sam’s, but it took only a few minutes before someone came up to us to ask if we were being helped.  And it turned out to be one of the owners - Tova.  She took us around and showed us the operation.  We were both very impressed with the tour.  Despite the December crowd, the mechanics were efficient, not chaotic.  Divers are on the same boat for their entire trip, and the boats are booked by skill level rather than haphazard choice.  The other owner, Navot, is a Naval engineer, and he custom designed the boats.  Each row is set up to enter the water separately rather than jockeying for position on one of two or three entry points.  Each set set has an area to set up the tanks, and its own dry box.  The seats are cushioned!  

Gear rinsing is set up by equipment type and clearly labeled, and the gear is very close to the boats.  The dining area seems clean, and the bento boxes are made in their own cafe.  We spoke with a number of the divers who have used FnF, and they all rave.

Oh, and did I mention, they have a cat?  I’m sold!  We’re booking a try-out visit in June, and asking to tour their live-aboard boat.

From there we walked to Red Rooster Cafe for lunch.   A diver we met yesterday gave rave reviews to their New York pizza, but, eh, hard to do NY pizza outside of NY.  It was passable, but no real rush to eat there again.  :)

We cabbed it back and enjoyed nap time!  After packing gear, logging dives, and starting the difficult photo selection, we headed back to the Taj for our last meal in Palau.  Robert (owner) was very kind to us - gave us the meal gratis, and then arranged to have us driven back to the hotel to get ready to return home.  He has done very well with the Taj, expanding it with a bar, and having a creative menu that is also authentic.  If you ever are here in Palau, you must come and eat at the Taj!

Back for a little rest before the long flights home.  I already miss Palau!

 

Our last diving day (this trip)

I can’t believe that we have made it to our last day in Palau - it seems unbelievable.  I remember when booking thinking that 9 diving days was a long amount of time, after all, it is 27 dives.  But it flew by, just like it always does.

We started out early at Blue Corner.  The trick is to leave the dock before 8 am, and you are virtually guaranteed to be the first dive boat there.  And we were.  There was more current this morning than our other early start, and not quite as many sharks, but still enough to make us happy.  I always enjoy seeing the big grey reef sharks being escorted off the property by jacks.  It is amusing to watch!  We circled the entire corner this morning, and just really enjoyed having it to ourselves.  When we surfaced, we were surrounded by many boats!  Nice to have it all without them to start the morning.

Our second dive was at New Drop Off after a biting rainstorm.  I wound up having to pull out the “magic coat” early in order to save my skin from what felt like slicing rain.  The currents were moving on this dive, and the channel section had quite a bit of an eddy pulling divers down.  Not us, though.  I was surprised to see the number of divers at the corner here on this dive, as I hadn’t taken into account that the other boats nearby had dropped their divers off here as well.  It was ok, we saw quite a lot of life, to include one Napoleon wrasse who (like the first time we saw him on this trip) looked to have seen better days.

Our last dive this trip took us back to German Channel.  How could we resist the urge to try for four for four?  We didn’t resist.

And we went four for four.

We made it down to the cleaning station and were getting ready to settle in when Joedyn pointed out the manta getting cleaned.  All four of us (Wayne, me, Benjamin and Sandra) got down on our knees and bellies to watch the 12 foot beauty being cleaned.  It was so graceful and beautiful to watch.

After a bit we swam along to the swarm of fish, but there was really no plankton, so the mantas were not at the bait ball.  We went back to another cleaning station, and we got to see a second manta, this one about 8 feet, getting cleaned as well.  It was as good a last dive for the year as we could possibly want!

We finished up the day with a stop in the milky way, a waterway famed to make you 10 years younger.  The first (and last) time I was in its waters was about 10 years ago, so we figured it was time for a renewal.  Stef the dive guide free dived down to bring back the sulfur mud in the water.  We slathered ourselves in the mud, and after it dried, went for a bit of a dive and swim to wash it off.  Let’s see how it works this time!  I put it liberally in my hair, hoping to fade away the grey and blond and to bring it back to red.  Wishful thinking, I know.

We got back, cleaned up our gear (to include a shampooing with “sink the stink” since our BCs and gear smelled like fishy fish), had the traditional New Year’s sashimi and beers with Sandra and Benjamin, and headed back to the hotel.

Dinner was as Palm Bay Bistro, and en route we picked up a passable bottle of sparkling wine (I really didn’t want to walk 5 miles round trip to get a good one and then to dinner).  After we finished our meal, we headed to the hotel, where the disco music entertained us as we chilled our bottle and got ready to settle down for the night.