Last day in Kalaupapa

I did get up at the appropriate time this morning to get out for a sunrise walk out to the ocean view pavilion.  I was glad for the fleece jacket I brought, as it was windy and chilly in the early morning, and it started to rain a little bit.  As I walked by the graves, I saw the markers noting the different religious denominations.  There are a lot more Catholic plots than anything, and the majority of the plots seem to be unvisited.  Who really knows how many people are actually buried here?  And with the tsunamis that washed out other graves.  So many bodies must be missing, and so many not registered.  I guess it makes it hard to come and visit.

When they visit the gravesites, they do not leave stones as markers like my father does at West Point.  Instead, there are cans of beer, shell and flower and ti leaf leis, and other assorted sundries that were the favored food and drink of the deceased.  This definitely ties in with my Hawaiian studies class this past spring - the ghosts want offerings of food and drink, especially if they are in purgatory still.  That helps sustain them until they make it to the other side.

So no sharks, no monk seals, no eels this morning at the cove by the gazebo, so I headed back.  There was a beautiful rainbow, which I tried to capture on the iphone.  We will see how that works out.  Maria returned from church and her beach walk/meditation having been stalked by a mother monk seal protecting her pup.  She got a great shot of the monk seal scolding her.  Maybe I will get to see them this afternoon!  But in the meantime, we will head to the museum here at 10 for a guided tour from Ranger Scott.

Maria came back this morning post Church and beach meditation to tell the story of a mama monk seal who chased her off the beach.  Maria had made sure that there was a very respectful distance between her and the monk seals, but mama stalked her, and chewed her out but good!  Maria retreated.

The tour of the museum was really very nice, We got to go into the Mauka Lab, which was built in 2004.  The museum proper is called Hale Malama, and it serves basically as a storage facility.  The park received funding for the Makai lab in 2011, and it is currently still under development.  The museum itself is dedicated to historical preservation of the way of life at Kalaupapa, and I see it as a carrot to entice the state to believe that the Park Service will maintain the park appropriately after the last patient died.

The Mauka lab is filled with artifacts of Kalaupapa - fishing poles, lamps, shells, tools fashioned so that the Hansen's disease patients could use them, artwork done by the patients, and even part of the original gate surrounding Saint Damien's grave.  There are also remnants of the Kalaupapa baseball team, the Lion's Club and the Boy Scouts.  It is a little snapshot in time.  Maria inquired about and was able to obtain a copy of Under the Pali, a book for which she has been searching for quite some time.

The wind and rain picked up this afternoon, so my plan for a long swim tabled itself.  That was ok, anyway, I don't need overly wet gear in the bag on the way home.  Instead, it was another beer and ice cream at the bar while waiting to see what the evening's plans would be.

We went to Maria's beach by the lighthouse!  We got to see the sun set over the Pali and just contemplate the beauty of nature.  Something about being sandwiched between the crashing waves and the towering pali make you feel somewhat insignificant,  Especially here.  Shannen regaled with the stories of the Molokai gods, and life in the settlement over the ages, and on spirituality in general.  Poet, philosopher, cook is our Shannen.  This place really has a calling to it, like it's somewhere between here and the next world.  And though I cannot tangibly explain the calling, I know that it is here.                       

Dinner was venison, ribs, leftovers, rice (and you should see the size of the rice cooker we used!) and the catch of the day.  We get to have the catch of the day every day, so we are quite fortunate.  I am not any good at catching and cleaning, though, I'm only good at getting pictures.  At least I can clean dishes!

Afterwards, it was time to retire and to get ready to go to the black sand beach tomorrow morning before I leave.  😿🙀

Bingo!

Today was probably the most laid back, lazy day that I can remember in the longest time.  I got up at 7 am (Maria had gone, come back, and gone again before I awoke), so I had breakfast, tended to the sunburned thighs, and then just continued to read my book on Kalaupapa.  I think I even dozed off again before Maria returned so that we could put together the baskets for the patients at Bingo tonight.  Since not everyone wins at Bingo, the general thought was to have something for each one of them.

Once we made the baskets, I went with Maria to the bookstore, where I discovered that they now take credit cards - bring in a little connectivity to the peninsula, and watch commerce take over!  We got there just before the bus of tourists arrived.  I did small, insignificant damage on the card (a mere $100) and picked up a few things.

It was a breezy day, but again very hot.  Walking in the afternoon just about drains you!  We got back and everyone was finishing up the food for bingo, and Aunty Erma was back from emergency eye surgery on Oahu.  Jessica (Maria's daughter) absconded with one eye patch to bedazzle it, and make Aunty a party eye patch.  😽

We started massing up boxes of donations at around 3, and the guys went over to the hall a little early (McVeigh Hall, a recreational center made for the residents of the peninsula in order to be able to socialize) to clean up.  We got in the vehicles and went over a little after four in order to set things up.  The tables were loaded with goodies, and Aunty Erma and Aunty Lani also had some cash envelopes made up as well.  We took many pictures of the setup, but were reminded some five or so times that we could not take pictures of the patients without their permission.  I did remember that from our hike down here in 2006, so my iphone was already tucked away by 5:30 pm.

People were slow to arrive, at 6:15, there was a very small number there, but Aunty Lani kicked things off with a pule to bless dinner, and we were off and running.  I loved it that when she was told people were just starting to make their way over to the hall and to just wait five minutes, she said "I don't care," and just kicked things off.  You can tell she's pretty high up in the pecking order of the annual visitors to Kalaupapa.  We wound up having 3 patients with us this evening, and they all got their baskets and leis, and members of the staff here will drop off the other 4 baskets.  The deformities of the Hansen's Disease patients is not as severe as I expected; however, these patients were largely diagnosed after the introduction of sulfadone.  But, like their predecessors, Kalaupapa has become their home, and they do not wish to leave.  They leave their bones at Kalaupapa.

Geronimo was our dee-jay for the evening, and he interjected levity with the reading of numbers.  We were playing bingo until well after 9 pm, and it got to the point where the Aunties were saying that bingo winners should grab three selections from the table! 

Finally, the last game of blackout bingo was played, and there were 9 winners!  Insane.  But as soon as the cash was distributed, all the players disappeared home.  We did a thorough, albeit quick, cleanup, and started home.  The vans were parked and not running, so a number of us just decided to walk home.  Twice I was asked, "Aunty, you wan' ride home?"  :)  I am feeling my age now, surrounded by these 20 year olds who think I'm ancient!  45 is nothing!  I showed them while snorkeling, though, and when I got the shots of the black tips. 

The stars over Kalaupapa are magnificent at night.  The only place where I can remember them seeming brighter and even more numerous was Kalalau, but this is an awfully close second.                    

As I was walking home, I could almost feel the presence of other beings around me.  And I was certainly stared at by a large number of feral cats.  In their eyes you can almost see the knowledge and awareness of the place where they live.  Silent, staring, and knowing.  I guess I should have gotten chicken skin, instead it was quite peaceful.

And then it was back home to bed, too late for another treat of beer and ice cream, but no matter.  I will be getting up with Maria tomorrow in order to go to the ocean view pavilion in the early morning to get some sunrise photographs.

Swim girl, swim

Mornings here have settled into a routine.  Maria gets up for church again this morning, ever so silently, I take the opportunity to sleep another half an hour and then get my cup of coffee and breakfast.  If there is time to start blogging, I blog.  If not, then not!  This morning I went to the pier to snorkel.  Not as much life or excitement as yesterday off the beach.  A part of me is yearning to get back out and see those sharks again, if only to get a better picture.  From what I understand, they mass up near the gazebo close to the airport.  That may be worth a morning's walk.  Sister Rose was in the visitor house here putting up updated mass information, and Maria arranged a tour of Bishop House for later in the day.

Later in the morning, I got together with several others to go snorkel from the pier to the black sand beach.  Geronimo led us after a giant cannonball entry from the pier (can you just picture someone who is named Geronimo yelling Geronimo?  He can't, so he didn't!

We snorkeled and free dove along the route to the beach, seeing ulua, lobster, butterflyflish, goatfish, and other assorted fish.  No sharks, though.  As Gernomino and I were exiting the water, Mari asked us if we had spotted the monk seal under water.  We hadn't but I saw him heading up the beach, so Geronimo said to take off and that he would meet me at the pier.  No dice, though.  As my companions here would say, "Da buggas wen' fas'!"  That's ok, though.  I saw a bandit angelfish, a snowflake moray, and two enormous ulua, all of which are on the camera.  I sweat that the angelfish came up to kiss me (or the camera).                                

So I snorkeled for about 3 hours! And am now paying the price.  I sit here writing with an enormous sunburn on one spot only - the back of my thighs.  Nowhere else!  This is going to put a little crimp in my style.

Aunty Erma had to go back to Oahu today.  She had been complaining of a lot of pain in the eye in which she had had lens replacement done.  Yesterday, she got sunscreen lotion in her eye, which is what she thought was the source of the irritation.  The pain intensified last night to the point where she called her ophthalmologist.  We are glad that she did, it turns out her stitches came out, and they brought her back into emergency surgery.  I will continue to hope that she mends well, and that she is able to return tomorrow for the big bingo day.

I must confess to a 30 minute siesta after eating a big lunch (3 hours in the water made me hungry).  At two, Maria and I left for Bishop House, but Sister Rose and the van were not present.  So we went to the library, which was open, to the museum to arrange a tour for Wednesday, and then hung out for a bit and then tried again at 3:30, when Maria saw the van back in the driveway.  Sister Rose was already giving the tour to DoraJean and her sister, so we waited.  And then we got the full on tour of the chapel and the Bishop House. 

Mother Marianne (now Saint Marianne) came to Hawaii in 1883 in response to a plea from King Kalakaua V, and she established Malulani Hospital in Maui, and ran Branch Hospital at Kaka`ako.  She also advocated for the opening of the Kapiolani Home for the homeless female children of patients with leprosy (Hansen's disease), who were shunned in their neighborhoods.  Sister Rose pointed out that the children of those who were afflicted with Hansen's disease did not have the disease, but they were forcibly separated from their parents and siblings.

In 1887, the government of Hawaii closed the receiving station on Oahu, and all those who were sick were destined for Kalaupapa.  In 1888, Mother Marianne arrived in Kalaupapa, taking care of an ailing Father (now Saint) Damien in his last few months.  After his death, Marianne was instated as Damien's successor at the Boy's Home.  When Brother Joseph Dutton assumed responsibility over the Boy's Home (Baldwin Home), Marianne brought two assistants over to help her with Bishop Home.

While improving women's plight, she advocated for better education, taught the women sewing, landscaping, and brought religious education to patients in their homes.  She collaborated with non-Catholics as well, arranging for visits from their pastors.  This is a practice that still goes on today in Kalaupapa, according to Sister Rose. 

Marianne also, after finding an abandoned infant on the beach that died immediately upon being picked up, created a nursery that was in place for one year.  Children would be brought here after birth, and parents could see the children, but not touch them.  Seeing how hard this was on the parents, Marianne began the practice of evacuating the children right after their birth.  Sister Rose told us that when the runway was originally paved, they found the skulls of hundreds of babies. How difficult a decision could that be?  Hawaii is a culture embodied by family.  Imagine being faced with the choice to give up your child, or to just let it die out of fear of separation. I cannot imagine having to make that choice.  Today no children under the age of 16 are allowed on Kalaupapa - largely because it is feared they will mock the patients - and yet there are hundred here already.

So the boys and girls were on separate parts of the peninsula - how on earth were there marriages, pregnancies, etc?  Nature will find its way.  Sister Rose said that Aunty Gertie told her that the girls would wait until the lights were out in the convent, and then the boys would come over.  They would all get together and go out until very early in the morning, at which time the boys would drop them off.  Kids today certainly did not create the process of sneaking out!  😸

Sister Rose showed us the cook's quarters (right off the kitchen, Marianne would let no one but the cook in the kitchen, either), and then the cleaning room area where Marianne's body was reassembled for testing as part of the canonization process.  It was hard for the residents to have Marianne's skeletal remains taken away, but the investigative team told them that it was just Marianne's bones leaving, and that her muscles, her organs and her essence remained in the earth at Kalaupapa, and could never be taken away.

I never knew, nor did Maria, that for Bishop Home to be built, graves were razed and/or relocated.  How stressful that must be/have been for family members to no longer know where their loved ones rest.

It takes a special calling to serve at Kalaupapa.  Sister Rose and Teresa have spent a long time going through the historical records, and have assembled photos of all the Franciscan sisters who served.  Decades reflected with pictures of the sisters embodying the varying colors of the rainbow.  The further along the decades go, the longer various sisters seem to have served.  One served for over 50 years!  That is dedication and love.  Sisters Rose and Teresa came to Kalaupapa four years ago to serve for three, wound up signing two six month contracts initially, and have been here ever since.  What lovely ladies. 

Then it was off for ice cream and a beer at the bar here, with a hope to latch on to the wi-fi.  And if you've never tried it before, give that snack a treat on a super hot day! It was successful wi-fi pairing, and I had a small chat with Wayne before we headed back to the visitor quarters.  We also dropped off cookies with Father Pat, who has been here a year now, and went into the museum to see the statues of Damien and Marianne.  The church is filled with statues, but the one of Marianne stands out - simple marble of Marianne in her sisterly uniform.  The other statues have color and life, but the dignity in her statue stands out in my mind.

I'm truly not minding being off the grid, it is peaceful and relaxing here, giving plenty of time to read and just be present.  Dinner was, as it has been since day one, a loud, boisterous and happy affair.  I am looking forward to tomorrow. 

Morning starts early in Kalaupapa

I was a little sore in the right hip last night from playing volleyball, so getting comfortable in a twin bed as a bit of a problem.  Nevertheless, slept well.  I was out of bed and looking at the last wisps of sunrise by 5:30.  Maria was already gone and her bed very neatly made.  A most considerate roommate, she was in the kitchen dealing with the first crisis of the day -- coffee machine plugged in but not percolating.  We relocated it to a new outlet, and proceeded onward.  It looks like the outlet died overnight, and no one could point me to a breaker box.

Slightly before 7, we both headed out.  Maria to walk and search for shells, and me to snorkel.  We encountered a  weaner on the beach from the northwest Hawaiian islands (red tag and a tattooed number).  It was playing and eating in the shallows.

I headed out for past the reef break to snorkel.  Wading out was like at the trench - walk and walk and walk and walk.  I saw Christmas wrasses, moorish idols, tons and tons of chubs, and 3 black tip reef sharks who appeared to be searching for breakfast.  I decided that it was appropriate to respect their hunt and head back inside the reef.  I took a bit of a tumble thanks to some waves, but emerged relatively unscathed.  Then it was time to get breakfast and clean off.  I had a taro malasada and mochi as part of my breakfast this morning, Filipino treats apparently, which were quite tasty!

The Kalaupapa peninsula used to be a sacred gathering place for ali`i, where they would come to meditate and gather in preparation for large decision making or meetings.  Then, in 1865, things changed.  King Kamehameha V signed the "Act to Prevent the Spread of Leprosy," a disease to which 95% of humanity has a natural immunity.  Not so native Hawaiians, Asians and other Pacific Islanders.  On January 26, 1886, the first 12 of what would become thousands were exiled to the peninsula here.  The "separating disease," Ma`i Ho`oka`awala, splintered apart families. leaving many of the residents here rejected by their families and needing to leave their bones in Kalaupapa. 

Leprosy is a devastating disease - affecting the nerves, skin, upper respiratory tract and eyes.  Patients frequently became scarred, disfigured.  In the beginning of the colonies here, being sent to the peninsula was tantamount to a death sentence.  To be here and shunned by one's family is unimaginable.

Forced isolation in Kalaupapa for sufferers of Hansen's Disease continued until 1949, after a cure was discovered.  Nonetheless, most of the patients chose to reside here.  They travelled globally, contributed to world causes, and gave of themselves, but still called this peninsula their home.  Today, only 7 patients remain, and Kalaupapa is taken care of by a combination of the Hawaii State Health Department and the National Park Service.

A large side headed to the back side of the island this morning for services.  They have come back now, and we are prepping for lunch and departure to gather salt.

Break, break

So when I heard that we were going to gather salt, I had visions of Gandhi marching down to the sea with denizens to gather gallons of water to evaporate for salt.  Not so much.  Instead, we headed down to the lava rocks (fishers came too), where we looked for pockets of salt and water. You then scoop the top layer of salt off of the water pocket and put it in your bag.  You are supposed to try to avoid getting any dirt or rocks in the salt.  I was not quite so talented as that, and got both dirt and rocks into my salt.  Not to worry, I was told, you can clean it up after you dry the salt.  So clean it up I will.

On our way we stopped at the graves of two original sponsors, Uncle Naia and Aunty Gertrude.                 

After I tired out from salt gathering, I was hanging out near the top. Maria called me over to see if I could ID a cowrie.  She had found it wedged between the dry rocks, and thought it was dead.   I knew it, but not the name. And its mantle was coming out!  Maria went back to throw it into the ocean, but it landed in the rocks. After a bit of maneuvering, I got down the side of the wall and threw it back into the water.  I wonder what tako now has a good meal...                                

We spent 3 1/2 hours out there gathering the salt!  In the meantime, a lot of fish for future meals was gathered.  A lot of people were asking me if I fished, to which I responded that I couldn't fish, especially not if they were pretty fish!  Everyone laughed.  And then tagged me to lead snorkeling tomorrow because I wasn't scared away by the three black tip sharks ...  this should be fun, I will be the sacrificial lamb.  They want me on the outside near the dropoff!

Got to meet Jessica, Maria's daughter tonight, although I'm pretty sure I met her before.  She and Shannen, the chef here at Kalaupapa for 15 years, hiked down the hill today.  Very nice girl!

Dinner was another pork laden feast, with some ceviche, fish curry, and sashimi on the side.  This is not a week to come out to lose some weight...

Well, it's time for this salt collector to fall asleep - it's been an active, sun filled day.  Aloha!

Saturday in Kalaupapa

This morning was an early morning, after a fairly active day yesterday.  Yesterday morning, Maria picked me up to go to the airport to drop off bags for shipping to Kalaupapa.  We went down to the terminal, paid for the shipment (mostly snacks, wine and a bottle of vodka for my shipment, boxes of supplies for bingo, wine, gifts for Maria who is a key organizer of things for this annual trip), and then they day was off.  I had a home visit, went to the dive shop, went to Patagonia to get some stuff for packing for clothes for here in Kalaupapa, and then back home to write up a court report. 

I dashed out of the house 10 minutes past my planned DP, but made it to Makani Kai by 7:00 am.  I was immediately identified as "Marie's" friend, and the family (a large group that has been coming here for ages) absorbed me into its company.  Everyone at the airport was very excited, and they were talking about how relaxing and rewarding the trip here is.  Maria arrived being driven by Earl, and escorted by Nani, the Portuguese water dog who was not able to come with.  Maria wants to train her as a service dog.  She was quite adorable!

We were on the second chartered plane, which seated 10 total (the first plane went out early, 7:15!).  I got the co-pilot seat which was exhilarating!  The clouds were beautiful, and I got some good footage of landing at Kalaupapa.  Certainly a much different perspective than the last time I came down here via the switchback trail - 3 miles, 26 switchbacks, and lots of mule poop!  We were greeted at the airport, signed in, and got our visitor badges.  These are very important, since Kalaupapa is a closed community, and overnight visitors are strictly forbidden. 

We had to hurry up and wait, as the charter flight with all the main supplies had not yet arrived.  Maria and I are staying in the same room area with Aunty Erma.  Once supplies were here, we all worked to unpack them into the kitchen, move them into the hallways, and get ready.  The cabinet and the 3 refrigerators are stocked!

It was bloody hot all day here today - since there's no internet connection, and I haven't seen a thermometer, I don't know how hot - but we have been a puddle of sweat since 10 am. 

Maria and I took off for the beach after Aunty Erma had her briefing about the schedule for the week and the cooking schedule.  I'm pretty sure I forgot the schedule within 5 minutes of listening!  The cooking and menu schedule is up on the wall, so it's pretty self explanatory there.  Aunty Erma figures out how many people are coming, puts together a menu, and procures supplies.  She then charges based upon how much food, and lodging and the charter flight schedule.  I'm glad she did this, because I don't think I could plan a trip for that many people! 

The beach was nice, I'm looking forward to a snorkel tomorrow.  the water is quite clear, and there are monk seals (one of whom had pups recently).  They are apparently quite aggressive when they have pups.

After swimming and shell gathering, we went to the bookstore, which is open, in theory, Monday to Saturday from 10:30 - 2:30, but more like 11:00 - 1:45...I got to meet Uncle Boogie, who runs the bookstore, along with Ruth (Auntie Gloria's daughter).  Very nice man, he gave me one of the national park service flyers on Kalaupapa.

After we came back and ate lunch at about 2, it was siesta time until 4:00.  Saturday night is volleyball night, and the games begin at 6 sharp!  One of the few things on time in Molokai I have seen!!  I watched for a bit, and then got in on the last 20 minutes of play time.  I was a little rusty, but it was fun, and I got in a few good shots!

Dinner was pork guisantes, salad, sashimi (from fish caught fresh today - 46 pounds worth), and fried fish.  Fabulous!  The crowd gathered together over dinner and Geronimo and Mochi (works in the kitchen) and Jazz played ukulele and guitar while we all ate.  The day wound up with planning for tomorrow's events, church and gathering salt.  I will be looking forward to the day!