Liverpool, here we come!

Today, the Spenglers and Jaffees returned to New York, while the Batzers forged forward to Liverpool to visit with Don and Barb McAllister, fellow Mac Geek Cruisers who have a wonderful video podcast, ScreenCasts Online. We “tubed” it to Euston Street Station, after which we took the rail out to Liverpool.  It was a quiet ride, Wayne slept and I worked on a court report as we made our way to historic Lime Street Station -- bet you didn’t know that the first railway was constructed between Liverpool and Manchester, now did you??  =]  In fact, the inaugural journey of the Liverpool and Manchester Railway in 1830 marked the first ever commercial railway line.

2 1/4 hours later, we arrived at Lime Street and saw a happily familiar face waiting for us at the station.  We managed to hit not too terrible end of workday traffic, and made our way to the McAllister house.

We brought in our bags, had a cup of tea, and then headed out first to Crosby Beach.  There we got to see Antony Gormley’s Another Place.  Cast iron figures which face out to sea, spread over a 2-mile stretch of the beach between Waterloo and Blundellsands. Each figure is nearly 6 feet 2½ inches and weighs around 1400 lbs.  In common with most of Gormley's work, the figures are cast replicas of the artist's own body. As the tides ebb and flow, the figures are revealed and submerged by the sea.

Another Place has been subject of local controversy in Merseyside. Some consider the statues to be "pornographic" due to the inclusion of a simplified penis on the statues, while others see them as beautiful pieces of art which have brought increased tourism revenue to the local area. As of March 2007 permission was granted to have Another Place permanently installed at Crosby rather than relocated to New York.

After our trip to Crosby Beach, we headed into Liverpool proper.  Liverpool was founded as a borough in 1207 and was granted city status in 1880. It is the fourth most populous British city, and third most populous in England.

Historically a part of Lancashire, the urbanization and expansion of Liverpool were both largely brought about by the city's status as a major port. By the 18th century, trade from the West Indies, Ireland and mainland Europe coupled with close links with the Atlantic Slave Trade furthered the economic expansion of Liverpool. By the early 19th century, 40% of the world's trade passed through Liverpool's docks, contributing to Liverpool's rise as a major city. Liverpool is also well known for its inventions and innovations, particularly in terms of infrastructure, transportation and general construction.

Liverpool was the port of registry of the ill fated ocean liner, the RMS Titanic. The words Titanic, Liverpool could be seen on the stern of the ship that sank in April 1912 with the loss of 1,517 lives (including numerous Liverpudlians). A Memorial to the Engine Room Heroes of the Titanic is located on the city's waterfront.

We parked near the Liverpool Wheel and went into the best-known dock in Liverpool, the Albert Dock, which was constructed in 1846. Built under the guidance of Jesse Hartley, it was considered to be one of the most advanced docks anywhere in the world upon completion and is often attributed with helping the city to become one of the most important ports in the world.

The Albert Dock currently houses a number of restaurants, bars, shops, two hotels as well as the Merseyside Maritime Museum, International Slavery Museum, Tate Liverpool and The Beatles Story. Nearby is the Pier Head, renowned for the trio of buildings – the Royal Liver Building, the Cunard Building and the Port of Liverpool Building – which sit upon it. Collectively referred to as the Three Graces, these buildings stand as a testament to the great wealth in the city during the late 19th and early 20th century. Built in a variety of architectural styles, they are recognized as being the symbol of Maritime Liverpool, and are regarded by many as contributing to one of the most impressive waterfronts in the world.

The Liverpool emblem is the Liver bird, long the subject of confusion and controversy. The bird shown on the medieval seal is generic, but the wording of the seal contains references to King John, who, in honor of his patron saint, frequently used the device of an eagle, long associated with Saint John. There is also a sprig of broom shown in the bird’s beak, a symbol of the royal family of Plantagenet. By the 17th century, the origins of the bird had begun to be forgotten, with references to the bird as a cormorant, still a common bird in the coastal waters near Liverpool. The College of Arms refers to the bird as a cormorant, adding that the sprig in the mouth is laver, a type of seaweed, thus implying that the bird's appellation comes from the sprig. Many modern interpretations of the symbol are of a cormorant, although several - notably that on the emblem of Liverpool Football Club - distinctly show the short head and curved beak more readily associated with a bird of prey.

After tooling around, and enjoying seeing the dock area, we headed back to Don & Barb’s house, where we rested while waiting to head out to dinner at Miller & Carter Steakhouse, the one place Don feels “safe” bringing Americans to eat beef!  It was a great meal with great company (guess who ate salmon for dinner), and we topped it off going back,  having some wine, conversation, and listening to music.  All in all, quite a lovely day.

 

It's Harry Potter and Les Mis time!

I can’t imagine in this day and age who hasn’t heard of Harry Potter, the boy who lives under the stairs and becomes a great wizard.  At least, not in our family!

This morning we took off not too early and not too late for our train ride to get to the Harry Potter studio tour.  We took an express train out of Euston Station, waited in line for the bus to the studio, and started our world exploration.  The studio lot is located just 20 miles from London in Leavesden.  The walking tour took us behind the scenes onto a good number of sets, where we also saw costumes and props. Many of the special effects and animatronics were also a part of the tour - Buckbeak looked so incredibly real, it was amazing. 

The area between the two walking tour locations contained a number of props - a butterbeer stand, the flying car, Hagrid’s motorcycle, the Night Bus (triple decker!), the Hogwarts bridge (closed due to the spattering of rain), the chess pieces, and several others.

While we were there, we got to enter the Great Hall, see the costumes of each House as they matured, look into Gryffindor and Dumbledore’s office, and to see many other set props.  Lovely!  And Diagon Alley was lots of fun to look at.  I really enjoyed the wand room - everyone who was a part of the experience was included, and the gentleman in the room knew precisely where each box was. 

Naturally, I asked, “Where’s Dr. Who?”  He brought me over to the row and showed me the box, and then said, “The box may not be much to look at right here, but it’s much bigger inside...” I had to laugh at that one.                                  

After our 3 hour tour, we headed back to London to rest for a bit before heading out to Les Miz.  I was planning on tea with Mom and Pam and Kate, but eventually fell asleep, only to wake up with just enough time to get ready and then head down to meet up and go with the grown-ups to see Les Miserables.

London’s theater row is on Shaftesbury Avenue, which was created to improve traffic conditions, but now houses many notable venues and Shaftesbury theaters.  Les Miz is shown at Queen’s Theater, right in the heart of the West End.  Queen’s Theater has housed an eclectic range of productions ranging from drama and comedy to musicals and experimental theater.

The musical opened at the Barbican Centre in London, England, on October 8, 1985, and it continues to run in the West End. It is the second longest-running musical in the world after The Fantasticks, and the second longest-running West End show after The Mousetrap, and the longest-running musical in the West End followed by The Phantom of the Opera.  As you can see from the date of this entry, we attended the 27th anniversary performance of Les Miz, and we joined the cast in singing HappyBirthday at the end of the show, and we were treated to an explosion of confetti as a climax.

Funny how the show and Dad were sharing a birthday!

Dinner at the Green Door (too many kitchens were closed by the hotel after we returned at about 11 pm), which was quite nice, followed by a mini-Einstein pajama party in the parents’ room.

 

A Sunday Match

The morning started with a run, and “brekkie” in the hotel.  Then we all went our separate ways - Mom and Dad on their Olympic walk, to be followed by a show (turned out they wound up at a movie theater), the Jaffees to the Tower of London, and then Matilda later, and Wayne and I off to White Hart Lane to watch the Hotspurs.

Of course, we had to stop at the Apple Store first, followed by lunch at Bella Italia.  Nice little place, and the hubby is definitely not fond of pubs.  Sigh. Oh well.  But we do like our Italian!

Tottenham Hotspur Football Club is an English football club based in Tottenham, London, that plays in the Premier League. The club's home stadium is White Hart Lane. Its Latin motto is Audere est Facere ("To Dare Is to Do"), and its emblem is a cockerel standing upon a football.

Founded in 1882, Tottenham won the FA Cup for the first time in 1901, making it the only non-League club to do so since the formation of the Football League. Tottenham was the first club in the 20th century to achieve the League and FA Cup Double, winning both competitions in the 1960–61 season. After successfully defending the FA Cup in 1962, in 1963 it became the first British club to win a UEFA club competition – the European Cup Winners' Cup. In 1967 it won the FA Cup for a third time in the 1960s. In the 1970s Tottenham won the League Cup on two occasions and was the inaugural winner of the UEFA Cup in 1972, becoming the first British club to win two different major European trophies. In the 1980s Spurs won several trophies: the FA Cup twice, FA Community Shield and the UEFA Cup in 1984. In the 1990s the club won the FA Cup and the League Cup. When it won the League Cup once more in 2008, it meant that it had won a major trophy in each of the last six decades – an achievement only matched by Manchester United, whom they beat for the first time at Old Trafford since 1989 a little over a week ago.

White Hart Lane is an all-seater football stadium in Tottenham, London, England. It was built in 1899 and has a capacity of 36,230.Along with housing  Tottenham, the stadium (known as the Lane) has also been selected for England national football matches and England under-21 football matches. White Hart Lane held capacity records in the early 1960s with numbers entering the 70,000s but as seating increased in popularity, the stadium has leveled out to a modest number in relation to other Premier League clubs. The record attendance remains an FA Cup tie on March 5, 1938 against Sunderland with the attendance being recorded at 75,038.

As with most stadiums in England, the pubs around the stadia are divided into home pubs and away friendly pubs for security reasons . Most pubs close to White Hart Lane are home pubs only, and The Bricklayers Arms is the most popular one with the best atmosphere. The Elmhurst is the most popular away friendly pub near the ground. Sadly, we did not go.

As we went in, I was asked by security if I had a gun in my purse - and then they frisked my purse!  Unbelievable, but probably realistic given how ugly competition between the fans can be.  I was amused by the sign banning alcohol on the field, and the queue to go into the stands filled by people pounding back beer.  The stadium was quite full, and we were seated near the area in the stands reserved for visiting fans.  Quite a small area, but they were loud, and the security team was out in force.  We were seated near the goal just 6 rows away from the pitch, so our view was quite something.  I have to admit, I was more than a little unprepared for the virtual combat zone that we entered.  I had thought that seeing a Mets game at old Shea Stadium had appropriately exposed me to vulgarity and violence, but boy, they had nothing on the football crowd.  The “gentleman” (very loosely used) to my right kept creeping over onto my seat, pushing me more and more into Wayne.  Finally, I looked at him, moved my legs sharply to the right and reclaimed my seat.  He had the grace to look sheepish.  Wayne thought that I should have sounded off with an “Oy!” and a couple of f-bombs so that I fit in.  What a hoot that was. In retrospect.

After a rough first half, Tottenham sharpened up, and beat Aston Villa 2-0.  Very exciting, and crushing crowds as we left.  The underground seems to operate similarly to the DC Metro after games, as new trains came in, empty, minutes apart as we all started to leave.

We met up to go out to dinner, and headed to Chinatown, where we ate at Mr. Kong’s.  It’s a long family story, but suffice to say, it was appropriate.  We enjoyed post-prandial drinks as well, and Pam and I tip toed off to bed in the wee hours of the morning.

   

And we made it - Dad's 70th in London

We woke up (well, let’s face it, at least one of us never got to sleep) groggy eyed and flat tailed as we made it to Heathrow.  Wayne and I performed surgery on our iPhones, replacing our existing SIMs with ones good for the UK (and much of the rest of the EU) that were pay as you go.  They worked quite well, and we were off and communicating.

We got out of customs and immigration, and there was our transfer waiting for us, a nice gentleman with the names Spengler, Batzer and Jaffee on a board.  As we moved towards the hotel, I was texting back and forth with Don McAllister, and Wayne was checking scores of various games and matches.

We made it to the Millennium Gloucester,  and the hotel had received word of ABC Tours, so our rooms were no longer paid for.  Small price to pay, but we at least still had our rooms, even though we could not check in until 4 pm (I made big eyes and sad noises and said we had come from Hawaii, the desk clerk softened and allowed for 2 pm).

We bundled up and then went first to Starbucks for a caffeine injection, and then off to Hyde Park Gate and some market shopping in Notting Hill/Portobello Market.                                           

Hyde Park, in combination with Kensington Gardens, is the largest of the three royal parks.  We saw many a football match, and a few runners and cyclists as we wended through the park quickly.  The park also has the famed Speaker’s Corner for advocates of free speech, the Serpentine Lido for swimming, the Albert Memorial and a statue of Peter Pan, the Isis statue and the Diana Fountain, and a memorial for the July 7, 2005 bombings in London.  Worthy of a longer visit than that which we made.

It was extremely crowded!  I was afraid I was going to lose Wayne to a milling throng, his least favorite place in the world.  Then it was lunch at a pub, and Scott & Will back to the hotel, Pam & Kate continuing shopping, and Mom, Dad, Wayne and I headed out on a Harry Potter walking tour.  We walked in and out of train stations, over bridges, by the Houses of Parliament, Number 10 Downing Street (Pakistani ex-pats were protesting asking for support against executing people for “blasphemy”), and through various alleyways at Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square.  Midway through the tour, as we were headed to Trafalgar Square, Wayne peeled off and headed to the hotel, where he periodically texted me with updates to our situation there.                              

Ask me some time about the walk to the tube to get to the start of the walking tour, I’m sure you’ll get a smile out of it...

At the end of the tour, we headed back, checked in, regrouped in Mom & Dad’s room, and then headed out to the Bombay Brasserie for dinner.  Nice dinner, good atmosphere, and a good way to end the day. 

Onward bound

We slept fairly late for us - a little after 7 am - and headed downstairs to see my parents up and about.  After a waffle breakfast, Wayne and I walked the loop and hit Starbucks, after which I headed out with Mom to mail back my soft sided suitcase, and then to hit Marshall’s for a pair of traveling pants, sorely needed for the travel.  Lunch was at a local pizza establishment, and we enjoyed our last meal in the Oakdale/Bohemia.

We made it to JFK rather quickly, and then waited in the long security line to gain entry to the Virgin Atlantic waiting area.  No Jaffees to be found anywhere.  It turned out that there was a frantic text from Pam as we were going through the line, their car service had not arrived, and they were driving down.  We anxiously counted the minutes as boarding time drew near.  Literally minutes before boarding was to begin, there was an announcement that boarding was delayed due to a medical emergency from the prior flight.  We cheered, apologizing to our neighbors, and then saw a familiar little head pop by - Will was there, as was Scott, Pam and Kate soon to follow.

We snacked, boarded the plane, and started our way across the Atlantic.  I have to say, one of the most uncomfortable flights I have ever taken.  Teeny, tiny, cramped seats, and terrible food.  I was happy to have had snacks prior to boarding.

Now, a little about London.

London is the capital city of England and the United Kingdom, and the largest metropolitan area in the United Kingdom. London has been a major settlement for two millennia, its history going back to its founding by the Romans, who named it Londinium. London is a leading global city, with strengths in the arts, commerce, education, entertainment, fashion, finance, healthcare, media, professional services, research and development, tourism and transport all contributing to its prominence.

London has a diverse range of peoples and cultures, and more than 300 languages are spoken here.  It contains four World Heritage Sites: the Tower of London; Kew Gardens; the site comprising the Palace of Westminster, Westminster Abbey, and St Margaret's Church; and the historic settlement of Greenwich. Other famous landmarks include Buckingham Palace, the London Eye, Piccadilly Circus (remember Big Boy in Austin Powers?), St Paul's Cathedral, Tower Bridge and Trafalgar Square. Its Underground is the oldest underground railway network in the world.

Within London, both the City of London and the City of Westminster have city status and both the City of London and the remainder of Greater London are the ceremonial counties. The current area of Greater London has incorporated areas that were once part of the historic counties of Middlesex, Kent, Surrey, Essex and Hertfordshire. London's status as the capital of England, and later the United Kingdom, has never been granted or confirmed officially—by statute or in written form. Its position was formed through constitutional convention, making its status as de facto capital a part of the UK's unwritten constitution. The capital of England was moved to London from Winchester as the Palace of Westminster developed in the 12th and 13th centuries to become the permanent location of the royal court, and thus the political capital of the nation.

London is often described using a set of district names, such as Bloomsbury, Mayfair, Wembley and Whitechapel.  Each district refers to a local area with its own distinctive character, but without current official boundaries. Since 1965,  London has been divided into 32 boroughs, as well as the ancient City of London. The West End is London's main entertainment and shopping district, and it includes very expensive residential areas.  The East End is the area closest to the original Port of London, known for its high immigrant population, as well as for being one of the poorest areas in London. The surrounding East London area saw much of London's early industrial development; now, brownfield sites throughout the area have been redeveloped as part of the Thames Gateway, including the London Riverside and Lower Lea Valley, which was developed into the Olympic Park for the 2012 Olympics and Paralympics.

No knowing how much we will get done in 3 short days, but let’s hope it’s a good 3 short days!

 

England