Has anybody seen the penguins yet?

Punta Arenas, located at the southern tip of the Chilean mainland, is Magallanes Province’s largest city. Amusingly enough, it also lays claim to the title of the world’s southernmost city. It overlooks the Strait of Magellan, and commands the historic route and local prosperity has risen and fallen with the trade that has passed through it.

It has a broad cultural mix, from English sheep ranchers to Portugese sailors. The city flourished during the California Gold Rush, when it became a haven for steamers rounding the cape. Although the Panama Canal dampened traffic, the port achieved renewed prosperity as an early 20th century Chilean wool and mutton center.

This aside, former traveling cruisers, travel guides, and even shipboard staff recommended going outside of the city for the day. The city itself is rundown, tired almost, and has virtually no unique shops or tourist attractions. We had already planned for this before hearing reviews, and booked a trip to Antarctica, which was advertised as hit or miss. For us, it was a miss.

Instead of heading to Antarctica, the cruise ship put us on board a plane to head 275 miles north to Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, a preserve for the primordial ecosystem that characterizes southern Chile. Tall granite pillars, some of which rise more than 8500 feet, tower above Patagonian steppes before dropping into a deep valley filled with lakes, creeks, rivers, waterfalls, glaciers, forests, and many unusual plant and animal species. It has been designated a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, with guanaco, Chilean deer, nandue, flamingos, condors, black necked swans, llamas, fox, hares, and an occasional puma. There are more than 200 plant varieties that thrive within the microclimate housed within the valley’s walls.

Our group (which included Steve Wozniak, his wife Jan, Leo Laporte, and other Mac geeks) was fairly resilient - we rebounded and were determined to enjoy the park, which was absolutely breathtaking! Unfortunately, our tour guide was determined to make us miserable! She continued to harp on the fact that we weren’t in Antarctica, complained about how difficult it was to learn two different scripts for the two possible trips (oh, by the way, she read the script verbatim across the 7 1/2 hour bus ride from the airport! AUGH!), would have the bus driver slam on the brakes and back the bus up in reverse (hello, loud beeping noise, please scare away all the critters we were backing up to look at), and seemed generally uncomfortable with silence. After the first hour, we watched Leo bang his forehead into the seat back in front of him, asking over and over “Do we really have this for another 7 hours?”

That aside, we had quite a bit of levity within the park. We got out and were able to do a bit of walking, although not much, and stopped at the one local tourist shop, where we saw the news that Mubarak had agreed to step down. Amen! Truly, the sights were spectacular, and it seems like a place you could go back to very easily - there are over 200 km of trails to hike, and you could easily spend a week there hiking. There are also 5 hotels within the park, and a number of park camping buildings along the trails.

When we returned, we were treated to a bit of a sanctimonious lecture about what it takes to prepare an ecosystem for 40 extra visitors, and it just went on and on. Having had the great fortune of being to Midway, and seeing a similar type of ecosystem closed off to large groups, and maintaining small visitor footprint because of the impact of preparation activities, I had to disagree with her there. We were glad to leave her behind, and were pleased with the park, but I’d have to say avoid Punta Arenas if you can!

All that aside, Wayne and I are planning on making a trip down to Antarctica in the future on one of the exploration vessels, possibly even the National Geographic explorer, to spend five days down in the area, and having ample opportunity to make shore landings via zodiac boats. One day, we will see the penguins!!

Penguins!

We have been following the route of Charles Darwin and the Beagle on this cruise, with today following suit. Today we disembarked at Port Stanley, part of the Falkland Islands. When he arrived here, Darwin wrote about the unusual flora, marine mammals, and birds, some species of which have since become extinct. There are several breeds of penguins here, including Magellanic, rockhopper, macaroni, Gentoo and King Penguins, and there are black browed albatross (look surprisingly like Laysan albatross) on the outer islands.

The Falklands are in the South Atlantic Ocean, 300 miles east of Argentine Patagonia and 500 miles north of Cape Horn. The islands have a total land area about the size of the state of Connecticut, and Port Stanley, its capital, is where about 2/3 of the Falkland population resides. Over the centuries, the islands have changed hands many times and have been the source of fierce battles between countries wanting control. Most recently, in April 1982, Stanley was occupied by Argentine troops for about ten weeks during the Falklands War. The Argentines renamed the town Puerto Argentino, and although Spanish names for places in the Falklands were historically accepted as alternatives, this one is considered to be extremely offensive by many islanders, demanding as it does that the city is Argentine. It has however gained some support in Spanish-speaking countries, though its acceptance is far from unanimous. Stanley suffered considerable damage during the war, from both the Argentine occupation and the British naval shelling of the town, which killed three civilians. After the British secured the high ground around the town the Argentines surrendered with no fighting in the town itself. The beaches and land around it were heavily mined and some areas remain marked minefields.Since the Falklands War, Stanley has benefited from the growth of the fishing and tourism industries in the Islands. Stanley itself has developed greatly in that time, with the building of a large amount of residential housing, particularly to the east of the town center. Stanley is now more than a third bigger than it was in 1982.

The islands are separated into two administrative clusters, East Falkland (Isla Soledad) and West Falkland (Gran Malvina). The local homes as we came into Port Stanley had extremely colorful roofs, in direct contrast to the very gray weather. They also serve a navigational function for sailors. It was quite chilly, and windy, which is how it is most days here.

We arrived at the capital off of a dinghy, and made our way into the visitors center. From there, we took of on the 4 mile trek to Gypsy Cove, home to Magellanic penguins and other ducks and birds. The first 2 1/2 miles that we went on were pleasant, a paved road, and some marshy land. We passed by the southernmost Anglican church in the world, government house, and a cemetery (along with a number of pubs!). But then we made it to the 2/3 point, the sunken Lady Elizabeth, and we returned to very rough road for the last 1 1/2 miles. That was when my previously irritating blisters turned into very irritating blisters!

As you round the curve to go towards the Bay, there is a pretty steep uphill, roughly a 200 foot climb, and then it is down to the Cove. As we were entering the initial uphill, we passed a couple who mentioned that they had not seen any penguins. Depressing! But we soldiered on. When we got there, a very kind tour guide offered us a ride back into town, which I snatched up immediately!

We walked along the pathway, and got to see penguins on the beach, and then some more very close to us on the path. Fantastic! These penguins are only here in the summer months, hatching chicks and getting them ready to migrate. I didn’t notice any little furry chicks, but Ivan and Sue, who went on a different trip, did see the babies. I’ll have to steal some of their pictures!

Back to town, we passed by the home of a man who protests whaling, displaying the bones of many different species in his yard. He also had a reindeer leashed to his front porch! We got to see the hospital as well, and the guide pointed out the green roofed buildings, and mentioned that the occupants there were “waiting for God,” meaning senior citizens! Lunch was at the Globe Tavern, where we had their “world famous” fish and chips (it has been reviewed in the NY Times!). Have to say, the fish left something to be desired, but it was indeed English cuisine. Most interesting were the tap (it’s a transformed saxophone) and the light anti-tank weapons on the walls...

 Quotes from Darwin, as he and The Beagle passed by: “On March 1st, 1833, and again on March 16th, 1834, the Beagle anchored in Berkeley Sound, in East Falkland Island...After the possession of these miserable islands had been contested by France, Spain, and England, they were left uninhabited. The government of Buenos Ayres then sold them to a private individual, but likewise used them, as old Spain had done before, for a penal settlement. England claimed her right and seized them. The Englishmen who was left in charge of the flag was consequently murdered...The theatre is worthy of the scenes acted on it. An undulating land, with a desolate and wretched aspect, is everywhere covered by a peaty soil and wiry grass, of one monotonous brown colour. Here and there a peak or ridge of grey quartz rock breaks through the smooth surface. Every one has heard of the climate of these regions; it may be compared to that which is experienced at the height of between one and two thousand feet, on the mountains of North Wales; having however less sunshine and less frost, but more wind and rain (Darwin, C., The Voyage of the Beagle, pp. 202-203).”

Dinner was a formal night, with Sue and Ivan, and then off to do some work. Tomorrow we head down towards Cape Horn, as we wind our way to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world.

Cape Horn bound

Another day at sea, headed past the Falklands towards Cape Horn. Cape Horn was navigated by a Portuguese Mariner under Spanish employ, Ferdinand Magellan. He went through the Cape by navigating a passage through a complicated series of channels that was then thought to be the most southerly point of the continent. Drake and others followed through the Pacific Ocean, but it was Le Maire and the Schouten brothers of the Netherlands/Dutch East India Company who organized an expedition consisting of two small ships and first sailed around the Cape. The Cape has frequent storms, strong currents, and icebergs (which we have yet to see!) that make passage hazardous at times. It is expected that we will navigate around the Cape at around 8:30 pm ship’s time -- I’m writing this at 2 pm. I’m excited!

Cape Horn was originally given the Dutch name "Kaap Hoorn", in honor of the Dutch city of Hoorn; in a typical example of false friends, the Hoorn became known in English as "Cape Horn", and in Spanish as "Cabo de Hornos" (which literally means "Cape of Ovens"). It is commonly known to English-speaking sailors as The Horn. The cape lies within Chilean territorial waters, and the Chilean Navy maintains a station on Hoorn Island, consisting of a residence, utility building, chapel, and lighthouse. A short distance from the main station is a memorial, including a large sculpture featuring the silhouette of an albatross, in honor of the sailors who died while attempting to "round the Horn".

When Magellan reached South America in 1520, he named Patagonia for the local tradition of wearing bulky protective shoes (patagones = big feet). Further south, believing smoke from native campfires to be evidence of smoldering volcanoes (of which there are none!), he named the countryside Tierra del Huma (land of smoke), which eventually became Tierra del Fuego (land of fire).

Darwin took off on the HMS Beagle as the official naturalist in 1831, after which he would publish Zoology of the Voyage of the Beagle (1840). The crew attempted several times, unsuccessfully, to round Cape Horn, but the Beagle continued to be pushed backwards. They finally rounded South America by navigating through that which is now known as The Beagle Canal, passing through Argentinian waters, near Ushuaia (which is our port tomorrow), up into Chilean waters. In fact, the mountains to the east of the Beagle Canal are now known as the Darwin Mountains, which run almost all the way down to the Tierra Del Fuego National Park.

Many people look at the Hardy Peninsula, on the southernmost portion of Tierra Del Fuego, as the “true” Cape Horn, but it is actually the False Cape Horn. The true Cape Horn is on Horn Island, further south.

Tomorrow is Ushuaia, and preparation for our trip to Antarctica, which requires the decontamination of all items of clothing and personal belongings which will touch the continent. We are hoping that the pilots will be able to land at King George Island Friday, for that is our limiting factor. If they cannot, there is an alternative plan for the day. Keep your fingers crossed for us!

High Seas

The last two days have been interesting, to say the least. Starting from when we departed from the port of Montevideo, we had about 36 hours of extremely rough seas -- very high waves, causing a lot of bucking of the ship, and some serious pitch and yaw. I liken it to walking on a roller coaster, and thank my lucky stars that I am on a fairly decent sized cruise ship, and not a 39 foot sailboat. The waves have been to a point where you can feel the bow of the ship jumping up in the water, followed by a huge crash as we land back down on top of the ocean.

It’s been an indulgent two days, sort of. Both mornings have started with the sunrise stretch program in the fitness center (very interesting to stretch as you are riding the waves, don’t think I’d want to do any yoga poses in this water), followed by either a 1/2 hour of ab work or a 1/2 hour of circuit training, after which, Wayne joins me for some more cardio. Yesterday it was a half hour on the elliptical, today, 20 minutes of running (the first time in nearly 4 years) on the treadmill. Both mornings have been filled with a hasty breakfast of cereal and yogurt, followed by our activities.

Yesterday, my morning was getting an hand treatment, followed by apple classes, and then an Indian buffet for lunch (small portions, thank you!). Yesterday afternoon was one class, followed by my foot treatment, and then off to the Pinnacle Grill for dinner with Sue and Ivan. OMG! The menu was to die for -- we all had something wonderful. Shish kebabs, salmon, lobster macaroni & cheese and Argentinian beef. The food was fantastic, presented wonderfully, with silent, efficient service. Sue, Ivan, Wayne and I spent a lot of time catching up on the last 2 1/2 years since we last met on the MacMania 8 cruise, and noted that much has happened in all our lives since then. It was an extremely pleasant evening, and I may wind up meeting up with Sue and some of her other girlfriends for a long weekend in New Mexico this year.

It’s always nice to solidify friendships! They have signed up with Insight Cruises for MacMania 14, so we will all be cruising together down the Rhine River, starting in Amsterdam and ending up in Southern German. We will also have 3 or 4 days in Paris at the tail end, I will need to brush up on my German, and Wayne his French.

I think I need to make it out to Atlanta before April so I can buy a few pairs of glasses... =]

Following dinner, we went up to the Crow’s Nest to watch the second half of the SuperBowl. I was holding my breath for Dianne, despite her Packers’ solid halftime lead, as the Steelers are famous for their second half comebacks.

This was a difficult Superbowl to root for -- the Steelers beat the Jets, so I didn’t have a team in the race. But my two close friends are each fanatics about their teams, and I certainly didn’t want to get either of them upset!

The game ended after midnight here, so it was off to bed. We were so tired, and the cabin was rising and falling at quite a roller coaster rate, so we fell asleep quickly, awakening to calm seas. Almost so late that I missed my sunrise stretch program!

Today starts a new chapter in my physical fitness regimen. I’m attending “Boot Camp” fitness classes that start today. There are only 4 during the course of the 12 day cruise, but they seem very challenging. The instructors give you an exercise plan to take home at the end of the cruise, which I may be able to fold into my Wii Fit/walking regimen. It is my fervent hope to be in much better shape at the end of this cruise than I was when we embarked. Working out is feeling good, though, and it’s nice to see how much more flexible I am after only three days of the stretching program.

Back to more classes with Sal. We arrive in the British Falklands tomorrow, and hope to grab a cab to go see penguins, and then possibly walk back to port - about 4 miles, so a little over an hour. Here’s hoping for penguin pix!

Monte Video, Uruguay

Uruguay, located between Argentina and Brazil, is one of the smallest countries in South America. Its geographical size is slightly larger than England and Wales combined, with a population of just over 3 million people (2 million of whom were on the white sand beaches today). Its coastline is beach lined, with rolling hills and grasslands in the north, similar to those in the Argentina pampas and southern Brazil. Long considered the most “European” of the South American countries, most of its people are of Spanish and Italian origin. Founded in 1726, Montevideo served to secure the area against Portuguese infiltration from Brazil. Large numbers of Spaniards and Italians migrated to the city in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, greatly influencing the city’s architecture, music and food.

I started the morning with the sunrise stretch program, followed by a 30 minute cardio session, and then joined Wayne for a 3 mile walk along the sixth deck of the ship. After our walk, and a late breakfast, we got off the ship and followed the little walking man and the green path.

As we entered into the city proper, the Uruguay tourism board had people to welcome us and give us a walking tour map of the city. We checked out the map, and it essentially mirrored our desired walking tour, so off we went. We started out on our walking tour of the old city by heading to Plaza Zabala. There was a magnificent statue honoring Bruno Mauricio Zabala, who founded as a strategic move amidst a Spanish-Portuguese dispute over the Viceroyalty of the Rio de la Plata, and as a counter to the Portuguese colony at Colonia del Sacramento. Not only was there a wonderful statue, there was also a hair coloring ad featuring McDreamy himself...    

From there, we headed through the Sarandi Pedestrian Street Shopping Mall to the Plaza Constitucion. The plaza, filled with dozens of vendors stalls, is surrounded by the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Gurvich Art Gallery, and the Town Hall Museum, which was the governors old house. Also known as the building of the Kabyle and Royal Prison, it is one of the most representative colonial monuments of the country, declared a historical monument. It houses a collection of documents and period furnishings.

From there, we continued on to Plaza Independcia, which was surrounded by magnificent architecture, with the exception of the ugly, red Radisson building. The plaza is entered through the gate of the original citadel of Montevideo, Puerta de la Ciudadela. It is flanked by the Solis Theater, the Torres Garcia Museum, and the Museum of the Presidents of Uruguay (also known as the Former National Government Office “Jose Artigas”).

From there, we headed back down to our point of origin, a street filled with vendors, restaurants, and people. We had an absolutely lovely lunch at Don Tiburon in a converted former railway station, some of the best squid and kabobs we have ever had, and then headed back to the ship, setting sail with happy tummies. Mac lectures start tomorrow whilst we are out at sea!