Honaunau and Dragonfly Ranch

We came back two weeks ago from five days on the Big Island.  We initially planned it to coincide with the visit of Fred & Pat Sawicki, friends of the family, so we could show them around Kona a little bit.  It was the prime opportunity to check out a B&B we saw advertised on the iPhone app, InnTouch.  Nestled in Honaunau, a wonderful place with historic significance to Hawaiians, the ranch (www.dragonflyranch.com) seemed perfect for a weekend visit.

After our trip to Midway, we contacted Jack’s Diving Locker in order to schedule a dive called Pelagic Magic, led by one of our cohorts in disaster on the Midway trip, Matthew D’Avella (www.mdavella.com).  That scheduled, we packed our dive bags, got on the plane, and headed over for an extended weekend.

The ranch itself is lovely, populated by Siamese kittens, and run by Barbara, who has done the majority of art work decorating the place.  The rooms are clean, our shower was unusual in that it was outside, along with our bathtub, and there are niceties in every room.  The breakfast offered is all organic, lots of fruits, quinoa, ionized water, organic coffee.  And the kittens abound, wreaking mischief.  Barbara offers various services ranging from laser treatments to meditation, to an afternoon with her. There is a labyrinth above the property where you are encouraged to abandon everything in your mind, move through it, and come out mentally refreshed. 

There were lots of good places to eat near the ranch in Kealakekua and Captain Cook.  One place where we had dinner was the Manago Hotel, where they are famous for their pork chops with gravy and fried onions.  I must say, it was a spectacular meal, reminiscent of schnitzels in Germany.  Inexpensive as well! 

The ranch is up the road from the national park Place of Refuge, where you could reside in order to be forgiven for violating any kapu, or for waging war against your cousin, who was a really mean dude by the name of Kamehameha the Great.  It overlooks the bay at Honaunau, as well as Kealakekua, affording a view of the Captain Cook monument.  Very peaceful, we were serenaded by cows, horses, roosters, dogs and cats daily, and we were able to indulge in some much needed rest as well as a little diving.  I highly recommend the ranch!

The dive with Matthew was absolutely overwhelming.  You are two miles from shore, and the ocean floor is about a mile beneath you as you descend.  We were tethered to the boat, at about 20-30 feet, flying in the pitch black night ocean.  So many cool little (and big) creatures that you seldom see during the day, there are a lot of larval animals out there.  And, we’re pretty sure, a shark or two that we didn’t see.  Lots of squid were running about as well.

Unfortunately, we both had dive camera malfunctions, which was ok.  There was so much sensory stimulation, that I don’t think we would have taken our best pictures.  It would seem we will need to do that particular dive one more time at least.

We had dinner the night after our dive at Teshima’s (FABULOUS Japanese restaurant) with Matthew and his wife, Kara, who works with NOAA.  She was finishing her Master’s thesis, based on the plankton food life cycle for pelagics, I believe, while the three of us were in Midway.  Lovely woman, poor thing has only ever dived Magic Island here on O’ahu, we shall have to show her better places the next time she is here. 

Both Matthew and Kara are very active in attempting to stop commercial harvesting of local Hawaiian fish.  The day after we left, there was a council meeting, and it appears that there will be a moratorium on harvesting fish off of the Big Island.  I’m happy about that, as the population at Honaunau is smaller than I can ever remember, and we are destroying fish life cycles.  But enough on that, I will have to address that in another blog post.

Then arrived Fred & Pat.  We met up with them in Kailua Kona, and headed out to Basil Boston Italian restaurant for dinner.  We led them back to their hotel, which was a bit beyond the turnoff to head to the Dragonfly, and made plans to meet the next day.

After lunch in Kailua on Tuesday, we headed to the Seahorse breeding facility near the airport.  Much like everything else off the island, seahorses have been over-harvested.  Their average life span following capture from the ocean is one year.  At the hatchery, seahorses are being bred for commercial sale.  They are trained to eat domesticated shrimp and krill, and their average life span in unknown, but there are a number 12 years of age still going strong.  Great learning experience, very pleased to have shared it with Fred & Pat.

And then it was home.  I think the next time my folks are here, we may just have to visit Kona, one spot to which they have not been.

Barbara, thanks for the lovely stay.  Matthew, thanks for the super dive.  And Fred & Pat, thanks for the trip to the Seahorse farm!!!  A great success overall.

Truly our last day

Happy Anniversary Mom & Dad, and Happy Birthday Maiya!

Final confirmation was posted on the board this morning, our plane will arrive at 1:30 am, and it will take roughly 2 hours to get to Honolulu.  This time I’m pretty much ready to go.  I was glad that the powers that be realized and afforded me the extra two days of relaxation here in Midway.

This morning brought our final circle island bicycle tour, trying to go down old trails that were here the last time Wayne visited.  Unfortunately, they were not well kept up, so we backtracked.  That’s ok, though, made for more riding time.  We finished up with a trip back to the finger pier, where there were 3 adult hybrids and a chick - bonus score!  Then it was back into Midway Town, where we went into the gym.  There was an abandoned fledgling canary, with no parents or nest in site.  I brought it to John Klavitter, the Deputy Park Manager, and he advised to put it outside the gym where it could forage since it was flying.  Don’t know that it will make it, but don’t think it would have had any chance inside the gym.  At least outside it can be heard, and perhaps its parents will come.

Life in the jungle.

The afternoon was spent on the boat headed back to Eastern Island, in search for the elusive short tailed albatross.  Alas, none to be found but the decoys, but we did get to see grey backed terns displaying mating behaviors, along with sooty terns.  Quite nice!  And we were led partway to the island by my dolphin buddies.  They abandoned us for our return trip, but all in all I was pleased with our excursion.  When we got back to the pier, there were two white tip reef sharks, but I was not quick enough with the camera to catch them.  Alas.

Then it was off to shower, eat dinner, and grab about 4 hours of sleep before the plane arrived.  We have a good feeling that it will work this time without any glitches.

Postscript:  We got up at 12:45, and waited for the plane to arrive, which it did at 1:30.  We were brought on board at 2:45, and took off at about 3 am.  We touched down in Honolulu at 6 am, and headed to Anna Miller’s for breakfast.  Although sad to leave Midway, we were both relieved to be home with the critters (who were mad at us), and in the position for me to catch my flight out Thursday evening.  What a trip we had!

Now to start planning for 8 years hence.

Watch what you wish for

The last thought in my head before we took off was hoping for no albatross strikes.  Of course, the thoughts previously throughout the day was wishing that we didn’t have to leave.  Guess what?

Both came true.

About an hour into our flight, as both Wayne and I were entering into sleep, there was a loud bang, and a violent shake to the airplane, followed by a rapid descent.  As you might imagine, we were both a little shaken up.  It was startling, to say the least.

The pilots turned around and returned our aircraft to Midway, landing safely.  We were greeted on the runway by the Deputy Fish and Wildlife manager and the PA.  I think they were worried about shock...we were all groggy and alert simultaneously, but quickly returned to Charlie Barracks and our old rooms.  We were grateful for that, as another group of 15 had arrived on the same plane.  Amusingly enough, a number of them didn’t realize it was so.

We got up this morning, saw a note for a pilot’s briefing at 5 pm, and so took off to get our bicycles back and continue to do our whole island exploration.  We circled the runway looking for shorttails (there were none), and then headed out to Bulky Dump for some photography.  The afternoon was spent out at the finger pier, and then headed back in for the pilot’s briefing.

They pretty much had no clue why the fuel spiked, or what caused the spark.  However, they assured us that the flames were simply the manifestation of the JP5 in a closed engine burning off.  That was far more reassuring than some of our fellow passengers accounting of an engine ensconced by flames for 4-5 minutes!  We also spent a lot more time at the finger pier in the afternoon, returning at sunset.  Lovely albatross in flight pictures, plus the hybrid and chick. 

Satisfying, with a distinct possibility of getting home on Thursday morning.

Heading back to the main islands

After breakfast we headed out to Midway theater, where it was opened up and we got to see it.  When folks were stationed here, this theater is where the films were played, similar to movie theaters on Naval (military, actually) installations worldwide.  Different than most, though, there were wooden benches in the back of the theater for seats, and the walls were covered with Navy images from the Pacific in WW II.  On the ceiling, there is an anchor in the middle of a blue field, with Marine Corps and Sea Bees emblems on each of the four corners.  Quite ornate, and the pictures rang true for the times in which they were painted. 

Then it was off to the hydroponics tent, where one Thai man grows enough lettuce, tomatoes, and cucumbers to support the island.  Not to mention this, there is cilantro, celery, a cantaloupe experiment, and more.  The fertilization is controlled by a computer (we checked it, and the nitrate level was off!), and fairly well regulated.  The birds seem to like the roof for roosting during the day.  Across the street is another garden where watermelon, other fruits and veggies are grown.

Wayne and I took off to walk North Beach from the restaurant to Rusty Beach, in search of albatross take-offs for video.  We got both the Laysan and Black-foot albatross taking off and in flight, along with a swimming monk seal!  Nice surprise, and the monk seal was very photogenic.  I really can’t imagine having to leave here after this week.  I’m already planning the packing list for 8 years hence.

We’ve now packed just about everything except our computers, which will go in our carry-ons at the last minute -- break, break -- we just got back from a 1 1/2 hour bike ride around to some of our favorite spots.  We had the luck of seeing yet another monk seal, and two hybrid (Laysan and Black-foot cross) albatross.  Nice pictures, too!  I also had the chance to pet an albatross today.  Two were squabbling, so I just stood still, and one ran behind me.  After the first one took off, I reached out and pet the head of the albatross (yes, Mom, washed my hands immediately afterwards) several times, and it just sat there.  Nice and soft, just like kitty fur!

And now we’re done with dinner, bags packed, and waiting for our time to head to the airport and board.  It will be a long (5 hour) flight on a very small aircraft (thus it feeling long vice being long), so we’re not looking forward to that, but the kids will be glad to see us at home.  I head in to work in the morning, and Wayne took the day off.  At least the kids will have quality time with one of us!

Aloha, Midway, looking forward to meeting again!

Sunday, sad Sunday

Today we spend our final full day in Midway.  Wayne and I started on email, which was faster than last night, and got some electronic things done.  After putting on sunscreen, rain jackets and a hat, we headed out on our bicycles to tour the island pre-brunch.  We went over to the water point first, going down the back roads and over the one hill on all our trails.  Some nice shots had there, including the one of the Laysan ducks above.  You cannot approach them, however, when you sit down on the ramp near the pond, the ducks get curious and come to visit.  Great early morning photography!

Then we continued around the airfield, making it almost to Bulky Dump when the rear tire on my bicycle blew.  We walked the mile back to transportation, which was locked, and continued on towards camp.  Luckily Janice and her husband (he works here as a 3 month volunteer) came along, and took the bike back to transportation for us.  Our naturalist Wayne (imagine his confusion every time I call for my Wayne) had a spare, luckily, so no worries for the rest of the day.

After brunch, we reconvened, and rode our bikes back to the airfield, following the two golf carts.  We’ve found that we much more enjoy riding on our bikes than the carts while here, it has been fun!  We walked along a trail we had not taken before that goes towards West Beach, paralleling it in the beginning.  Lots of brown and black noddys, red-footed boobys, white terns, and albatross.

From there, across the airfield to see Bulky Dump, the pillbox, an old ammunition storage bunker, and a few other overlooks Wayne and I had already discovered.  Then (after a water/personal break at the Fish and Wildlife offices), we headed to the far side of the finger piers, going down trails and to another duck weep.

Once we were done here, it was back to the cargo pier for a beach cleanup.  As it was miserable mid-day sun, I hid under the pier and discovered at least 100 pounds of junk, both plastic and abandoned/lost nets.  We had quite a take as a group.

As we went home, my left heel was throbbing.  I had taken some sort of thistle in the heel while on Eastern island, which apparently has an irritant in it to which I am allergic.  Note to self:  buy hiking boots 8 years from now for use on Eastern island!  So, we abandoned evening activities in favor of a compress on my heel, and some Nero Wolfe.  All in all, we biked/walked for about 7 hours, very much worth the final frozen custard cone!