Law School

To Bird, Or Not to Bird

I woke up a little stiff this morning, but not too bad.  I woke up once during the night and looked outside the window- lots and lots of stars.  But, alas, by morning the cloud cover rolled back in by sunrise, and we were greeted with a light, misting rain. Of course, no rain, no rainbow, which showed up at about 7:30 am.  Yay, rainbow!

Last nightʻs sleep was a little restless for me - I had dreams of being pushed multiple times throughout the night.  Breakfast was a treat, pumpkin pancakes with chocolate chips!  Along with our usual eggs, fruit and other goodies.  We got off to a bit of a late start, but all was still well in the world.  It gave me the opportunity to have a little quiet time to write about yesterday, and our time with Baron.  What a wonderful man.  I hope he stays for a while longer!!!  After 13 years, Iʻd imagine that the solitude gets to be a little bit too much.

The rain started back up again in earnest after breakfast, so went over to the garage to get boots and rain jackets.  It took a while to find a pair of boots large enough, but at last I found the right size!

We then headed off to find Steve, our birding guide, back at Pua ʻAkala.  We were hoping to see some of the endangered birds of the forest.  Hakalau is home to four of six endangered Hawaiian forest birds - the ʻAkiapolaʻau, Hawaiian ʻAkepa, Hawaiian Creeper, and the ʻIo.                                                       

Alas, luck was not overwhelmingly with us today.  We heard the ʻAkepa, but did not see.  We did see one ʻIo, though, but it was too quick for me to photograph.  That's ok, though, the lush canopy of trees and the sounds of the birds overhead were enchanting.  We saw lots of Iʻiwi, their flamboyant red plumage highly visible in the trees.  We did get to see the earlier Hakalau plantings.  It is amazing how quickly the koa grows, and how large the ferns get.  

After about 12:30, it was time to head back to the cabin to eat lunch, pack out, clean up, and he’d home.  Naturally, Iʻm a bit anal retentive when it comes to meeting SP time, so I allowed for no lolly-gagging around the lunch table!  :)  We did make short order of things, and after divvying up what would remain with Baron, and what would go to Rhiannon’s mom, we commenced out of the park towards Big Island Candy.  We did a pass-off of Rhiannon to her family once we were out of the park, and headed off into the rain.

As we were driving down Saddle Road, we saw the most beautiful rainbow that almost drizzled like melting ice cream.  Oh, to not be driving the truck!  When we got out of the truck at Big Island Candy, we were overwhelmed with heat and humidity.  Huge change after the last two day, we had even been running the heater in the truck on the way down the mountain!  We are back to reality.  

As we entered into the airport, we saw yet another magnificent rainbow (we are, after all, on the Rainbow Isle) that spanned the area.  Picture 1/3 rainbow to the left, blue sky in the middle 1/3, and 1/3 rainbow to the right.  Nature is enough to give you chicken skin.  

Following a beer and a miso soup, it was time to begin boarding the plane.  A quiet flight back, it gave me time to think and to write.  I was sad to have spent this wonderful time away from Wayne, but I wouldn’t trade it at all.  It was lovely.

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Welcome to the Place of Many Perches

So have you ever been able to plant an endangered tree?  We each did today, under the tutelage of Baron.

A little now about Baron, taken from articles sent to us by Dean A.  

Baron Horiuchi has spent over 13 years developing and implementing propagation and out-planting methods for endangered Hawaiian plants at the Hakalau Forest NWR in Hawaii. He has created a unique program that engages many conservation partners and volunteer groups in the management of the Hakalau Forest greenhouse operation. Baron has aided in the recovery of seven species of endangered plants, including two species with fewer than three individuals remaining in the wild. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service awarded the 2012 Rachel Carson Award for Scientific Excellence to him for his scientific contributions toward native plant propagation and restoration.  Because of his persistence and ingenuity, the populations of endangered plants such as the lobeliad Cyanea shipmanii, with only three known individuals in the wild, have increased 30-fold, elevating their potential for recovery and reducing their risk of extinction. More than 6,000 other plants of seven endangered species have been propagated from seeds and cuttings, greenhouse grown and out-planted into protected areas. He has planted over half a million koa trees!  The result of all these efforts is the return of forest habitat. Native forest birds have returned to an area that was open pasture from cattle grazing just 20 years ago. Many of the native bird species, such as ‘apapane, ‘i‘iwi, Hawai‘i ‘elepaio, and Hawai‘i ‘amakihi, are seen regularly within the replanted areas. In addition, the endangered Hawai‘i creeper and akiapōlā‘au regularly forage in the replanted koa groves.

And this was our host, a man who made this greenhouse happen with his own two hands, and out of his own pocket.

The morning started typically - first one awake, I started the coffee, and went outside to see what the world had to offer.  It was raining, and the clouds were coming in on us.  Nēnē were at the back door, enjoying themselves.  Lauren and Hillary made us a robust eggs and bacon breakfast, and we had bagels, and fruit.  Full bellied kind of day.  I filled my day pack with water and jerky, and we went outside with Baron somewhere around 9 am.

We started out with a tour of Baron’s first greenhouse - a reclaimed dog kennel that he took over when the refuge had to get rid of its dogs, they had gone out and eaten nēnē, also an endangered species.  He didn’t ask his bosses, he just took it over and began his out planting operation.  

There are well over a half million plantings.  Talk about impressive.

One of the things that Baron showed us was a species of mint that had been thought to be extinct, but was discovered in Hakalau in 1990.  Baron sent clippings off to the Bishop museum while trying to figure out the species.  A year later (yes, the Bishop museum has to be busy), the reply was that the mint was the phyllostegia brevidens.  Baron found it in at least one other location in Hakalau, and began cultivating it.

We then toured the greenhouse where most of the plantings exist - the sign the entry says “Laulima,” which translates into “many hands working together.”  That sign was carved by visitors and gifted to Baron.  The hands on either side of the sign vary in size, which represents the wide diversity of ages in the volunteers who come here.  The sign at the top of the blog is the original sign, still lovingly kept in the greenhouse.

Then it was on to the new greenhouse, contracted and constructed without consulting Baron.  It has a little work left to do. What was very impressive was outside the greenhouse - all the water used in the greenhouse comes from a cachement system.  Baron is working to get all of the water collection tanks connected in order to be able to use the water more efficiently.  Right now the tanks are full thanks to the recent tropical storm, but it isn’t always that way.  Connecting the tanks will make Baron’s job a little easier in times of drought.

We spent some time choosing and then planting trees.  I chose a polymorpha - ʻŌhia - as did a few others.  Dean A chose an ʻŌhia Lehua, and Grant a Pukiʻawe.  It was quite a bit of work to clear the area, break the soil, and do the planting.  But it was wonderful, and the smell of freshly dug earth relaxing. 

After the planting, we began creating cuttings - mint.  The “extinct” Brevidens, and Velutina and Racemosa.  It feels almost like you are killing them when you make the cuttings, you are brutal with your gardening scissors, and yet not.  I think we made hundreds  of cuttings.  And we squished seed pods for planting berry trees.  That was some hard work, and made the fingers tired.  Every time I thought I had popped open all the seeds, another cherry showed up.  We needed rolling pins!

And then it was lunchtime, and getting ready to head to Pua ʻAkala cabin.

On the ride over we saw Erckels Franklin, green neck pheasants, Hawaii creepers, ʻElepaio and ʻOmaio.  What a treat!  It makes me wish someone else were driving so I could take out my camera and shoot stills.  Of course, if you donʻt put your camera into your camera bag, you arenʻt going to get those stills. The pictures you see here are from my iPhone.  Good pictures, but I wish I had remembered to put the Olympus in the truck!

The cabin is part of the Pua ʻAkala Ranch, which was built in 1883 by D.H. & E.G. Hitchcock.  They were the owners of Hitchcock & Co. Sugar Plantation.  Built originally as a vacation house by the Hitchcock family, traveled to by mule from Hilo, the cabin became a bunkhouse and rooms were added when the Shipmans leased the land to raise cattle.  The house is made of koa, has seven rooms, a corrugated roof, is on the National Register of Historic Places, and ghosts.  The cabin is haunted, possibly by two spirits.  One is a young child, and one an older man.  Freakily, Allieʻs picture shows a face in the window.  Unfortunately, I donʻt have that one to share. 

I had made jerky from about four pounds of beef the night before we came here, and split it into two bags (different seasoning mixes).  It was quite popular, especially with Conrad, but both Rhiannon and I left some out for the spirits in the house.  Uncle Likeke often told us stories about spirits in the night, and that they would leave him be if there was food around.  Couldnʻt hurt, right?  We also made sure not to make a full circle around the house - by completing a full circle, you take away some of the energy of the house with you.  These are not happy spirits, so no full circle from us. 

We managed to see Iʻiwi, two ʻIo (Hawaiian hawks), and very possibly a Hawaiian creeper right by the cabin.  

Then it was rallying time, and time to go down slope further into the forest.  This time, we were hunting after Pilo beans, an orange bean related to coffee.  Baron will be smashing these, roasting the seeds, and using them to make warming beverages.  Probably coffee.  We went exploring, looking for birds, and were treated to lovely, little flitting birds going around overhead.  And as the sun was starting to get ready to set, there was an exquisite rainbow over the forest canopy.  Almost the golden hour.

Then it was back to the cabin, where we took turns getting showers (yes, warm water!) while our stir fry dinner was being prepared.  It was a fun, conversation filled supper.  After Dean A headed back up the hill, we started out playing hearts.  That lasted maybe a round, and then Grant pulled out Apples to Apples.  Itʻs hard to describe, but a player throws down a red card that has a word on it, and then all the others throw down a green card that may (or may not!) relate to the initial card.  We played until a little after 10 pm, with lots of ghost talk story.  There was too much cloud cover to see the stars, so we headed off to sleep.  Another time perhaps.

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Headed off the Beaten Path

I woke up extremely excited this morning - we are finally on our way to Hakalau!  I had checked in last night for our Hawaiian flight, and was raring to go.  I wound my way into the inter island terminal, grabbed a snack, and linked up with Dean Antolini, we made the arrangements for driving, and then we were boarding and on our (slightly delayed) way!

We met up with Grant and Rhiannon at the airport, and then Dean A & I went with Baron Horiuchi to pick up the other four wheel drive vehicle.  I’ll tell you more about Baron in a bit, with help from Dean A’s fabulous preparatory email.

The headquarters building is only a few minutes from the airport, but quite a distance away from our final destination, the forest preserve itself.  We signed our waivers, I turned in a copy of my driver’s license, and then we were off to pick up our fellow travel mates, and head to KTA for grocery shopping.

We had already paired off into meals and preparation teams, so Rhiannon and I headed out to get the lunch meals preparations.  And dark chocolate.  A good amount of it.  We tried to shoot for one hour, and we almost made it.  I’ve heard the Dean is a stickler for being on time, I certainly didn’t want to blow the schedule on my first day of the trip!

Hillary, Lauren, Allie and I were in one truck; Dean A, her son Conrad, Rhiannon and Grant were in the other.  It is certainly quite a drive to get up to the refuge, and we were enjoying chatting, and I was trying to figure out how to bluetooth pair my phone to the car radio.  Hillary was reading the manual, but we couldn’t find it.  Lauren, though, found the USB port, and we were off and cooking with gas, listening to music on our way.

Yes, I’m a geek.

We stopped halfway up Mauna Kea and were treated to a talk by Rhiannon on the local flora.  I wish I had a tape recorder on her as she spoke, I would love to transcribe everything she told us. I fear that is going to be an enormous problem for me on this trip.  I could lug around the iPhone with the record function on, but it just doesn’t seem practical…

It wasn’t too long after our side rest break that we were headed of of Saddle Road and into the park.  We cruised in, enjoying ourselves, and then we went off road.  I put the truck in park, went to four wheel drive, and we headed further into the beauty of the forest.

The first thing we went through were fields and fields of Mauna Kea sliversword plants, otherwise known as ‘ahinahina.  An endangered species, silversword are particularly adapted to little rainfall, harsh weather, a huge ultra-violet impact from the sun and a cindery substrate that holds little water.  One of the most uniquely adapted plants in this alpine zone is the beloved ‘ahinahina or silversword. The leaves are thick and groove-shaped for catching rain. They are covered with a mat of tiny silver hairs that both reflect the heat of the sun and absorb whatever moisture there is from the passing mists.  Some of the magnificent ‘ahinahina on Mauna Kea live up to 50 years before flowering once and dying.  Find out more about ‘ahinahina here.

We traveled along the road - we were the photo car, stopping continuously to get pictures, and going up and down a rocky, roller coaster of a road.  Of course, Dean A must know everyone in the environmental world - we stopped and pulled over as a car approached us and stopped.  It turns out that it was Jack Jeffrey on the road, famous photographer, and occasional bird watching tour guide at Hakalau.  Look him up.

At one point, a small, black feral pig jumped through a wire fence, and ran across the road.  Dean A had stopped just in front of us, and Conrad’s arm was pointing in the brush where it was rooting. We also saw ʻalala (Hawaiian crow) on our way up.  They were huge.  Oh, and tons of nēnē!

A little further down the trail, we stopped again to look at the ugly plant called gorse.  Gorse is a horrible, introduced weed that is slowly (or not so slowly) taking over the hillsides of Mauna Kea.  It is extremely competitive, displaces cultivated and native plants, and alters soil conditions by fixing nitrogen and acidifying the soil. It creates an extreme fire hazard due to its oily, highly flammable foliage and seeds, and abundant dead material. It not only increases the risk of fire, but also produces a hotter fire than most weeds. This fire risk increase threats on the margins of native vegetation. Because of various characteristics of the plant, the soil is often bare between individual gorse plants, which increases erosion on steep slopes where gorse has replaced grasses or forbs. Spiny and mostly unpalatable when mature, gorse reduces pasture quality where it invades rangeland. Gorse understory in forests interferes with cultural operations, increasing pruning and thinning costs, and can interfere with the growth of conifer seedlings. Click the photo to find out more.

We continued on until the sun was starting to set into Micronesian looking clouds, and we finally entered into the refuge where we would be staying for the weekend.

Trés jolie, n’est-ce pas?

When we got to the cabin, I was surprised by how non-camping like it is.  There are 8 bunk beds in the one room, a large communal kitchen with a gas stove (and what appears to be a gas heater), a shower, and a Paloma hot water system.  

While spaghetti dinner was being prepped, Baron held court.  The refuge, he told us, is for the birds.  Never mind the native trees (although without them, the birds would not have returned) that he has helped to cultivate- his life’s passion, it seems - the refuge is for the birds.  He told us about the pig problems on the mountain, particularly as it related to the hapuʻu fern.  The pigs uproot it to get to the base, creating big holes that fill with water.  This in turn attracts mosquitos, and they are encroaching further and further up into the sanctuary.  This is terrible, because the mosquitos bring disease that kills off our already endangered bird species.

After dinner, the Dean started conversation - everybody, tell the most remote place you have ever been.  We shared stories of travel and experiences - what a widely traveled group we are!

Unfortunately, I was the first to fade, and the Dean broke things up before 9 pm.  A number of us went out to look at the stars, but not I.  Oh well.  Tomorrow.

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Getting Ready to go to Hakalau

 

Today I get to head out to Hakalau, a national wildlife refuge established in 1985 to protect and manage endangered Hawaiian forest birds and their rain forest habitat. Located on the windward slope of Mauna Kea, the Hakalau Forest Unit supports a diversity of native birds and plants equaled by only one or two other areas in the State of Hawai’i.  It is a damp and chilly location, so, as you may notice, I am geared up for warmth.

Much of Hawaii’s native lowland habitat was degraded following the Polynesians’ arrival over a thousand years ago. In the late 18th century, cattle, goats, and European pigs were released into the forests, and hundreds of additional alien plants, animals, and insects have subsequently been introduced. Most lowland plants seen today like the orchid, ginger, and plumeria are aliens or nonnative. Introduced animals such as Mosquitoes, wasps, Small Asian Mongooses, cats, and rats have also harmed Hawaiian habitat and native species.

Grazing pressure by cattle and pigs has resulted in the replacement of Hawaiian plants by more competitive alien grasses and shrubs within the upper portions of Hakalau Forest. Below this pasture area, the native tree canopy is still intact, but the native understory has been replaced by alien grasses, blackberry (Rubus spp.), Banana Poka (Passiflora tarminiana), and English Holly (Ilex aquifolium). The replacement process may have been accelerated by efforts to create more pasture land through bulldozing and burning, and by logging mature trees for timber and fence posts.

Eight of the 14 native bird species occurring at Hakalau are endangered. Thirteen migratory bird species and 20 introduced species, including eight game birds, as well as the endangered ʻopeʻapeʻa (Hawaiian hoary bat, Lasiurus cinereus semotus) also frequent the refuge. Twenty-nine rare plant species are known from the refuge and adjacent lands. Twelve are currently listed as endangered. Two endangered lobelias have fewer than five plants known to exist in the wild.

Hakalau was once a thriving, multiethnic sugar plantation town up until the early 1960s when the plantation originally called Hakalau Plantation Company began to decline. In 1963 it was merged into the Pepeʻekeo Sugar Company, in 1973 merged into the Mauna Kea Sugar Company, and the mill shut down in 1974.

Since 1989, over 400,000 koa, ‘ōhi‘a, and other native plants have been planted in this area as part of the refuge's reforestation program.  At the lower elevations - 2,000 to 3,600 feet - the forest is predominately ‘ōhi‘a trees with an understory of nonnative trees and shrubs, such as christmasberry, clidemia, an strawberry guava. Above 3,600 feet, the invasive trees and shrubs drop out and the forest is dominated by ‘ōhi‘a and koa trees with an understory of ferns and native flora. A remnant of dry ‘ōhi‘a forest is found at the highest elevations and includes sandalwood and māmane.

We will be doing service work by planting native species, and getting rid of invasive species.  We will also be going on a bird watch!  And to a haunted cabin!  My only sad point is leaving my hubby and kitties behind.  :(

Time for an adventure!

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Waimea Valley on a Sunday

So today marked the first of a series of field trips in Dean Antolini’s Environmental Law class.  I actually have the desire to go on all of the trips (today is Waimea Valley, next month Kaena Point and a trip to Hakalau on the Big Island, and November a “Reef to Ridges” hike guided by Dean A.  

The first thing you need to know is a little bit about Dean (Denise) Antolini’s resume:  she helped to found and serves on the boards of two prominent North Shore non-profits: the North Shore Community Land Trust and Mālama Pūpūkea-Waimea.  She volunteers tirelessly, it seems, to help preserve Hawaiian lands and its native species.  She also has served on the nominating committee for the State Water Commission, was the inaugural chair of the Honolulu City Council’s Clean Water and Natural Lands Commission and is past chair of the State Environmental Council. (http://www.hawaii.edu/news/article.php?aId=6145)  So, in short order, she is a very passionate advocate for the ʻaina.

We met up at at the Waimea Valley botanical office - somewhere I have not been before, signed waivers, and got an orientation from Ryan.  The botanical garden has thousands of types of plants, in many gardens, and the staff has a greenhouse where they are working to (I guess) incubate and grow native Hawaiian plants that are close to extinction, thanks to the insertion of non-native plants, extensive deforestation, and production of sugar cane and pineapple. We started with an ʻoli - E hō mai - picked up our tools, and started the hike up.  On the way up, invasive plant species were pointed out to us (strawberry guava, albizia, and ungulates are examples), and we learned about the destructiveness of the wild boars.  When we reached the summit of our hike, we got to see some of the revegetation efforts led by former environmental law students, boy scouts, and other volunteers.  Impressive to see that they brought the water collectors up the ridge manually.  You would have to climb it to understand why it is so impressive.  As part of an erosion recovery effort, we planted two native species - ʻAhaʻawa and ʻUlei.  Let me just say it was sunny and HOT!  Iʻm glad I wore the big floppy hat and UV protectant clothing.

After planting and watering, we had a discussion about the wind turbines constructed in the Waimea Valley by First Wind LLC.  The Valley itself is considered sacred - “Valley of the Kings” is certainly supportive of that.  It has three heiau in the ahupuaʻa (to be discussed at a later date), and is home to a large number of endangered species - both plant and animal. How did the turbine march start?  Hawaiian law mandated that 70% of the stateʻs energy must come from renewable sources by 2030.  Kamehameha Schools leased the property to First Wind, as part of the master plan for the north shore of Oʻahu.  Wind power is a double edged sword - while you have a “cleaner” source of energy (which is not benefitting the residents of the north shore, but the city of Waikiki), you still have problems.  Birds (and bats) are killed, noise pollution, and the decline of property value because of the destruction of views.  Make no doubt about it, wind turbines are very visible, and can be very visually destructive, just look at the picture to the below right.

I donʻt want to get into a discussion about environmental assessments (EA) and environmental impact statements (EIS) right now, but just assume that Gordon Gecko managed to get away with not having to do one about the impact on the north shore, right under the residentsʻ noses. Because it was a private operation on private property, once the deal was signed it seemed like there was no remedy to the decision legally.  Except for the construction of a communication relay station to support the turbines built on state land on Mount Kaʻala.  Cue the dun dun dun.  A detailed EIS was needed because of this - and an accurate call out of the “takings” of endangered Hawaiian bats, attracted to the turbines by bugs lured in.  We donʻt quite know where the end of the story will lie, but itʻs a journey to get there.

Lunchtime was a welcome break, and I shared some newly dehydrated buffalo jerky.  It is really quite good.  Dean Antolini gave us a rousing speech about the fight to save Waimea Valley from exploitation by Mr. Wolffer (I think he owns the Long Island winery), and for the preservation of the Valley itself.  You can find more information on the “Save Waimea Valley” movement at http://www.waimeavalleycoalition.org. The Honolulu City Council approved the settlement of the Waimea Valley condemnation action on March 15, 2006, the Senate passed HB2400 on April 11, 2006, and the title to Waimea Valley passed to the Office of Hawaiian Affairs.  A separate LLC now runs the financial side of Waimea Valley, and another company (direct offshoot of OHA) the title (I think).  A discussion of the history of Waimea Valley can be found at http://honoluluweekly.com/cover/2005/11/waimea-indivisible-who-will-save-the-valley/ and more information about the Valley today at http://www.waimeavalley.net.  Itʻs not completely current, but it gives you a good idea about the Valley of the Kings.

Our last stop was the greenhouse, where they are working to cultivate native plants.  Check out the last link above, you can get more information.

Such a great day.  :)

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